REVERSIBLE TOTE BAG FROM 'AMY BUTLER'S STYLE STITCHES'
If you're looking to get a custom tote or shopping bag, these instructions assure that you can absolutely make your own. Ohioan Amy Butler started selling passport-sized bags in the late '80s and made her name sewing bags of all sizes as well as also designing fabrics. You can see all of that on display in Amy Butler's Style Stitches
(Chronicle Books) or at her site, Amy Butler Design.
Finished Size 16 in/40.6 cm wide at bottom, 13 in/33 cm wide at top x 19 in/48.3 cm tall (not including handles) x 51/2 in/14 cm deep
Fabrics From 54-in-/137-cm-wide mid-weight home Dec fabric -3/4 yd/0.69 m of one print for the exterior -15/8 yd/1.49 m of a coordinating print for the reversible side, pockets, and handles
Other Supplies -51/2 yd/5.03 m of 20-in-/50.8-cm-wide fusible woven interfacing (I use Shape Flex SF-101 by Pellon) -1/4 yd/0.23 m of 44-in-/112-cm-wide fusible fleece (I use fusible Thermolam Plus by Pellon) -1 spool coordinating all-purpose thread (I use Coats Dual Duty XP)
Source http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0811866696?ie=UTF8&tag=craftfocom-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=0811866696Step 1
Cut out the pattern pieces.
From the pattern sheet uploaded (zoom image to the left), cut out: -Main/pocket panel -Side panel
Step 2
Cut out all of the pieces From the Fabric.
From the exterior fabric a. Lay the fabric in a single layer with the right side down. Fold each selvage edge* 9 in/22.9 cm in toward the Wrong side and gently press a crease along the folded edges. -Cut 2 main panels on the fold*
Fold each edge of the fabric in again 4 in/10.2 cm and press a crease. -Cut 2 side panels on the fold
b. Open the fabric. Using a ruler and fabric marker, measure and mark the dimensions for the bottom panel directly onto the right side of the single layer of fabric. Then, cut along the marked lines. -Cut 1 bottom panel: 61/2 in/16.5 cm wide x 17 in/43.2 cm long
From the coordinating fabric c. Lay the fabric in a single layer with the right side down. Fold each selvage edge 9 in/22.9 cm in toward the Wrong side and gently press a crease along the folded edges. -Cut 2 main panels on the fold -Cut 4 pocket panels on the fold
Fold each edge of the fabric again 4 in/10.2 cm in and press a crease. -Cut 2 side panels on the fold
d. Open the fabric. Measure and mark the following dimensions directly onto the right side of the single layer of fabric. Then, cut along the marked lines. -Cut 2 handles: 7 in/17.9 cm wide x 23 in/58.4 cm long -Cut 1 bottom panel: 61/2 in/16.5 cm wide x 17 in/43.2 cm long
From the fusible interfacing e. Use the panels you have cut as full-size pattern pieces to cut out the fusible interfacing. -Cut 4 main panels -Cut 4 side panels -Cut 4 pocket panels -Cut 2 bottom panels -Cut 2 handles
From the fusible fleece f. Measure and mark the following dimensions directly onto the right side of a single layer of fleece. Then, cut along the marked lines. -Cut 1 bottom panel insert: 51/2 in/14 cm wide x 16 in/40.6 cm long -Cut 2 handle inserts: 15/8 in/4.1 cm wide x 23 in/58.4 cm long
Step 3
Apply the Fusible interfacing and fleece.
a. Place the Wrong side of the first exterior main panel onto the fusible side of the correspond- ing interfacing. Using a damp pressing cloth*, fuse the interfacing in place. Turn the panel over and press it again, making sure there are no puckers.
b. Repeat step 3a to apply the corresponding interfacing pieces to the second main panel, both reversible main panels, all side panels, all pocket panels, both handles, and the reversible bottom panel.
c. Center the fusible side of the fleece bottom panel insert on the Wrong side of the exterior bottom panel. There will be 1/2 in/1.3 cm of the fabric showing around the outside edges. Place the fusible side of the interfacing over the fleece and fuse it to the Wrong side of the bottom panel, sealing the edges and enclosing the fleece. Turn the panel over and press it again, making sure there are no puckers.
Step 4
Make and attach the pocket.
a. Place two pocket panels Right sides together, matching all the edges. Pin along the top edges. Stitch a 1/2-in/1.3-cm seam across the pinned edge. Backstitch* at each end.
b. Turn the pocket panels right side out and press along the top edge.
c. Topstitch* 1/4-in/0.6-cm from the top edge. Backstitch at each end.
d. Match the sides and bottom edges. Pin and then machine baste* a 1/4-in/0.6-cm seam down both sides and across the bottom of the pocket panels to hold them in place.
e. Place the pocket onto the right side of one of the exterior main panels, matching the sides and bottom edges. Pin and then machine baste a 1/4-in/0.6-cm seam to hold the pocket in place.
Step 5
Attach the side panels to the main panels.
a. Place one main and one side panel right sides together, matching the long side edges. Make sure to place the wide end of the side panel at the bottom edge of the main panel. Pin along the edge. Stitch a 1/2-in/1.3-cm seam down the pinned edges, beginning at the top and stopping 1/2 in/1.3 cm from the bottom edge. Backstitch at each end.
b. Repeat step 5a to attach the second side panel to the opposite side of the main panel.
c. Repeat steps 5a and 5b to attach the second main panel to the opposite long edges of the side panels.
d. Press all seam allowances open.
Step 6
Attach the Bottom Panel
a. Place one long edge of the exterior bottom panel and the bottom edge of one main panel right sides together, matching the raw edges. Pin along the edge.
b. Stitch a 1/2-in/1.3-cm seam along the pinned edge, starting and stopping 1/2 in/1.3 cm from each end of the bottom panel. Backstitch at each end.
c. Repeat steps 6a and 6b to attach the second main panel to the other long edge of the bottom panel.
d. Turn the bag at the bottom corners. With right sides together, match the bottom edge of the first side panel to the first short end of the bottom panel. Pin it in place.
e. Stitch a 1/2-in/1.3-cm seam along the pinned edges, starting and stopping 1/2 in/1.3 cm from each end of the bottom panel. Backstitch at each end.
f. Repeat steps 6d and 6e to attach the bottom edge of the second side panel to the other short end of the bottom panel.
g. Trim the corners in the seam allowances, making sure not to clip the stitching.
h. Turn the exterior of the bag right side out. Use your turning tool to gently push out the corners, and press.
Step 7
Make the reversible side of the everyday shopper. Repeat steps 4 through 6 to make the reversible side of the bag, leaving it Wrong side out.
Step 8
Make and attach the handles to the exterior.
a. Fold the first handle in half lengthwise, Wrong sides together, and press a crease along the folded edge.
b. Open the handle. Fold each long edge in to meet the center crease, and press. Tuck the fleece handle insert, fusible side facing down, under one of the folded edges.
c. Fold the handle in half again at the center crease to enclose the raw edges. Pin. Topstitch a 1/4-in/0.6-cm seam along each folded side. Backstitch at each end. Press to fuse the fleece in place.
d. Find the center of the handle by folding it in half, matching the short raw ends. Press along the folded edge to mark the center, and open the handle. Measure and mark 11/2 in/3.8 cm on each side of the center crease.
e. Fold the handle between the two marks, matching the long folded edges, and pin in place.
f. Stitch, following the original topstitching line between the two marks. Backstitch at each end. Note: You will be stitching through all layers of the handle, creating a 3-in/7.6-cm area that is narrower than the rest of the handle.
g. Repeat steps 8a through 8f to make the second handle.
mark the handle placement
h. On the first exterior main panel, using a ruler and fabric marker, measure along the top edge, and mark 1 1/2 in/3.8 cm in from each of the side seams. Repeat for the second exterior main panel.
i. Place one short end of the first handle on the right side of the first exterior main panel with the outside edge of the handle to the inside of one of the marks. Match the ends of the handle to the top edge of the main panel. Pin and then machine baste a 1/4-in/0.6-cm seam to secure the handle.
j. Place the opposite short end of the first handle to the inside of the other mark, matching the ends of the handle to the top edge of the main panel. Be careful not to twist the handle. Pin and then machine baste a 1/4 in/0.6 cm seam to secure the handle.
k. Repeat steps 8i and 8j to attach the second handle to the second exterior main panel.
Step 9
- Attach the exterior and reversible sides to Complete the bag. Note: Be sure to position the exterior and reversible pockets on opposite sides of the bag.
a. With the exterior right side out and the reversible side Wrong side out, slide the reversible piece over the exterior, tucking the handles down between the two layers.
b. Match the top edges and all seams. Pin along the top edges.
c. Stitch a 1/2-in/1.3-cm seam around the top of the bag, leaving the edges between the handle on one side unstitched for turning the bag right side out. Backstitch at each end.
d. Turn the bag right side out by pulling the exterior and reversible pieces through the opening at the top, between the handle. Push the reversible piece down inside the exterior.
e. Fold each side of the opening under 1/2 in/1.3 cm toward the Wrong side, and press. Pin the edges together.
f. Topstitch 1/4 in/0.6 cm from the top edge completely around the bag to close the opening and give the Shopper a nice finished look.
Your bag is complete! Bid farewell to sad and ratty shopping bags and armloads of plastic sacks and head to the store to show off your Shopper. Different day? Turn your Shopper inside out!
Step 10
Reprinted by permission from Amy Butler's Style Stitches,
photographs by David Butler (published by Chronicle Books).
