MAKING THE BASE The following method is different from other fascinator bases because this piece is covered in lace so it is unnecessary to have sinamay covering the wire. Cut 17 inches (43cm) of white wire, curve it into an oval shape with your thumb and tape the overlapping ends. The middle of the overlap of the wire will be the centre back (CB). Take two pieces of ivory sinamay 6 in (15cm) square and iron together. Next, place the wire over the sinamay so the bias runs along the length of the base. Mark around the outside of the wire with a marker pencil, pin in the middle of the sinamay to hold the layers together and cut along this line.

Now, starting at the CB, sew the wire Ivory lace bridal fascinator.

Now cut a piece of ivory lace which is bigger by 0.5in (1cm) than the wired base. Lay this over the sinamay with the edge folded in and sewn with a running stitch resting next to the edge of the wire. Use ivory thread so the stitches don’t show. Make sure the lace lies smooth over the base and trim any excess away from the wired edge.

CAPTIONS FOR IMAGES

1. Join the wire with Sellotape.
2. Mark around the wire and cut out.
3. Sew the wire to the edge of the sinamay.
4. Sew the lace next to the wire and trim the excess off.

BINDING WITH PETERSHAM The base is bound with ivory petersham, which has been made into a loop to fit. Loop the petersham over the wire, lining up the CBs. Pin in place and then tack (baste) around with a contrasting thread.

Take the pins out. Dampen a clean and soft absorbent cloth and wipe it evenly around the petersham. It will then shrink to fit. If any areas remain a little bumpy, just smooth them with your fingers until they disappear. Leave the petersham to dry and then stitch with stab stitch with matching thread. Remove the tacking.

CAPTIONS FOR IMAGES

1. The petersham loop for binding.
2. Pin in place and tack.
3. Shrink to fit.

MAKING THE TRIMMING Next, create the trim with the bonded lace flowers and ivory hackle feathers.

These pretty flowers are made of floral lace, from which you cut out each flower shape. Find two flowers that match and cut a small square of Bondaweb to fit. Iron the Bondaweb with the sticky side down on one side of one lace flower. You will be ironing the paper side. Cut the excess Bondaweb away. Remove the paper backing and place the opposing lace flower on top, matching carefully.

Iron again, but this time place a soft cloth between the iron and the lace (to prevent any stickiness coming through the lace onto your iron). The two flowers will now be bonded together. They are then given a little stitched pleat at the bottom, which will make them stand up a little and give them a bit of extra interest. Repeat to create another flower. Take a small group of ivory hackle feathers and glue them together to create the fanned-out shape. Wrap a piece of ivory cotton around the glue to hold the feathers in the desired shape and put to one side to dry.

Arrange the two groups of feathers at the CB, radiating out over the base. Attach the two lace flowers decoratively over the join between the two groups of feathers. To finish this bridal headpiece, it can be set on a comb with or without hat elastic depending on the bride’s hair and what hairstyle is chosen. There is a huge market for bridal headpieces, and designs can include veils, beading, vintage trims, pearls, diamante, matching wedding dress fabric and much more. For some more ideas for that special day, zoom in on the images in the later steps:

Now you have learned how to create a variety of headpieces, the following chapter covers the basics of cut and sewn hats.

CAPTIONS FOR THE PHOTOS

1. Iron the bondaweb sticky side down and cut away the excess.
2. Place the opposing flower on top. -- Give the flower lift with a stitched pleat. Glue the feathers together and wrap with thread. -- Take the pins out. Dampen a clean

Arrange the feathers and flowers over the base.

FASCINATOR EXAMPLE Judy Bentinck Millinery. Coco Rococo Collection. Style: Ivory crin fascinator with diamantes and aqua quills.

FASCINATOR EXAMPLE Beth Morgan Millinery. Enchantment Collection. Style: Glitz full face veil.

Excerpted with permission from Designing and Making Hats and Headpieces.